Out-of-season strawberries are never worth bothering with.  You know the ones I mean, those oversized berries, white and hollow in the middle, the ones that taste like water.  No, not worth bothering with.  But by June my strawberry-deprived days are over at last.  Red all the way through, luscious, they practically melt in my mouth.  Even though my own strawberry plants are still in the blossom stage, my Michigan neighbor farms have flats and flats laid out on their tables at the market, calling me to create something luscious. 

Alas, my three inaugural quarts didn’t stay around long enough to make it to a tart or jam or even shortcake.  I need to resolve myself that the first week needs to be devoted to simple tasting, unembellished, bursting with that slightly tart sweetness.  The best method is to rinse a quart and leave it in the colander over a plate.  That way the little green tops can pile up on the lip of the plate and be swept up all at once into the composter. 

I did manage to whip up a small batch of sabayon, that rich custardy sauce made with egg yolks, sugar, cream and marsala wine.  This is not a traditional sabayon, because I had no marsala, but had recently taught an ice cream class where I talked about the versatility of custard.  I had gorgeous golden-hued eggs from Chicken Scratch, and some Cointreau lingering in the cabinet.  Voila, orange-spiked sabayon for my first red-all-through strawberries.  Next week I’ll buy more.

Orange-spiked sabayon for two

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon Cointreau, or other orange-flavored liqueur

1/4 cup half-and-half or whipping cream

Place a glass mixing bowl over a saucepan filled with an inch or two of simmering water.  Keep heat at a temperature to maintain a simmer (but not a boil).  Add egg yolks, sugar, Cointreau and cream, whisking vigorously to mix, but taking care not to infuse too much air.  Continue stirring until the sauce thickens and whisk leaves ribbons in the sauce.  Remove from heat and pour over berries.

Recipe and photo compliments of Janine MacLachlan www.RusticKitchen.com.

Tags: strawberries sabayon

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