And also lucky to check out the future home of Honey Butter Fried Chicken, the next adventure for chefs Christine Cikowski and Josh Kulp, who started Sunday Dinner Club while holding down full-time restaurant jobs.

The egg pictured here is from that special brunch, cooked sous-vide in a special machine that cooks at very low temperatures for a very long time.  Not something to try at home without that special machine.

It reminded me how much I love poached eggs, where a rich viscous yolk undulates over the other food on the plate. Eggs are on everything these days, from burgers and curly-lettuce salads to my chickpea sweet potato tagine, even pizza, as my friend Domenica demonstrates so well. In Lauro’s native Uruguay, egg on a pizza is called pizza de caballo, or horse pizza.  He has no idea why.

But back to eggs

We have only a few days until the Sunday brunch to end all Sunday brunches, Mother’s Day.  This is when we pull out the stops, and poached eggs are a great way to celebrate Spring and Mom all at the same time.  Eggs are a sign of spring because the advent of warmer weather is the sign for chickens to lay eggs more frequently, so they are more abundant.

If you’re hosting a Mothers Day brunch, check out these lovely table settings curated by House & Home magazine.  And consider my jam-glazed yellow cake for dessert.  It’s still Lauro’s favorite birthday cake, and perfect for this time of year when you want to use up any of last year’s jam before fruit season kicks in.

Perfect poached eggs

• Start with the freshest you can get. In the UK, they label eggs on the date they were gathered rather than when they expire.  If you buy your eggs at the grocery store, get them the day before your event, not a week in advance. Fresher eggs maintain their structure better.
• Fill a shallow skillet with about three inches of water and heat over medium heat until bubbles form around the edge.  Add a splash of white vinegar.  If serving a number of eggs, line a platter or sheet pan with two layers of paper towels.
• Crack each egg into a small bowl and slide it into the simmering water.  I like to space the timing by about a minute or two to allow me time to take each egg out of the water when it’s exactly ready, as well as maintain an even cooking temperature in the pan.  After you slide the egg into the water, gently spoon the hot water over it for a couple seconds, then move on to the next egg.  Let them cook for a few minutes until the whites are firm.  Do not overcook, because the yolks should stay runny.  Three minutes or so should do the trick.
• Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and blot gently on the paper towel.  Trim any excess white that went astray during cooking.
• Place on top of just about any food you’ve chosen to serve.

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Photo by Janine MacLachlan, The Rustic Kitchen, www. RusticKitchen.com. All rights reserved.

The clever title comes from Kirstin’s blog, where she writes about cheese and classes she teaches in the San Francisco Bay area.

Wisconsin Cheese first brought the two of us together a few years ago on a junket to visit some of the best cheese makers in the state.  And thus I was delighted to see so many Wisconsin cheeses celebrated on these pages.

Kirstin focuses on cultural and historical influences of American cheese making.  The result is a fascinating read.

And on to the tasting…

We enjoyed some cheeses I wrote about in Farmers’ Markets of the Heartland, both amazing cheeses crafted by people who know what they’re doing and have the awards to prove it.  The first was Hidden Springs Creamery’s Meadow Melody from Westby, a combination of cow and sheeps milk cheese.  I remember owner/cheese maker Brenda Jensen telling me about feeling so proud to win an award at the county fair, because Vernon County - in the Driftless region in the southwest portion of the state - has so many great cheeses that the competition is quite strong.

We moved on to the heart-swooning Uplands Cheese Company’s Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Dodgeville, a cheese I had to ration when it was first introduced because I could eat a half pound in one sitting.  And it’s a terrific indulgence for mac-and-cheese.

And then the Roelli Dunbarton Blue from Shullsburg.  I don’t recall meeting a blue cheese I didn’t like, but this cheddar-blue hybrid was exceptional.

Then Kirstin introduced us to the Holland’s Family Cheese’s Marieke Gouda from Thorp, a grand champion of the U.S. Cheese Championship.  Cheese maker Marieke Penterman first trained and apprenticed in Wisconsin, then went off to Holang to study traditional methods there.

We finished with Chalet Cheese Co-op’s Limburger from Monroe.  If you’ve tasted limburger, you know it’s not for the faint of heart, and is best enjoyed with a little accompaniment, like crusty bread, and perhaps a smidge of Rare Bird cherry lime preserves.  It was delicious with a late harvest wine from Austria.

Rachel Driver Speckan, beverage director at City Winery, paired some delicious wines to accompany the cheeses, no easy feat when you consider the complexities of flavors.  Both she and Kirstin dished up great information as they guided us through the tasting.

And for your own cheese course

Consider a few things when designing your cheese course at home:

• Three cheese should be sufficient to transition from the main meal to dessert, or replace dessert if you like. Offer a progression of mild to bold flavors.
• Splurge on special artisan cheeses to treat your guests. Small portions - even two bites per cheese - can communicate the singular nature of the experience.  No need for giant portions here.
• Take advantage of expertise of your local cheese store.  Many cheese mongers are trained to help you find interesting flavor combinations.

And if you’d like to go on your own cheese adventure, the Wisconsin Cheese folks offer a great map.  Because there’s no better food to offer your guests than one that comes with a story.

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Photo by Janine MacLachlan, The Rustic Kitchen, www. RusticKitchen.com. All rights reserved.

Seriously, I wonder if the book publishers have a heat-seeking secret search engine that shows I’m a devoted fan of things like peanut butter cookies. 

And cake. 

And Julia Child.

Because in that cardboard envelope is the new paperback version of Dearie: The Remarkable Life of Julia Child by Bob Spitz.  It’s a treat for all.

The consummate journalist, Spitz is transparent at the beginning when he confesses to having a crush on Julia Child.

Didn’t we all?

I had the pleasure of meeting her when my client Land O’Lakes butter sponsored the Baking With Julia series on PBS.  My friend Dorie Greenspan wrote the companion book, and practically lived in Cambridge during the production.  I had a crush on Julia before I met her, and I wasn’t disappointed.  She was genuine and funny.  And modest, which was a bit of a surprise.  She unaware that she was Julia Child.  Which of course made me love her more.

I had the pleasure of visiting her house - the one in Cambridge where the kitchen was later transported to the Smithsonian.  Over the fireplace was a picture painted by her husband Paul of a bunch of cats, peeking.

It made me love her more (yes, more!) to learn that Julia loved cats.  At the time I was surrounded by dog people.  I love dogs too, but it seems that many dog people do not love cats, which strikes me as a little prejudiced.

But back to Dearie.

Spitz’s writing style wants me to run out and get his other work about Bob Dylan and The Beatles, worthy books I’m sure.  His spirited telling of the Julia tale begins with the launch of The French Chef on public television, at a time when the concept was new.  It was a lovely confluence of a time when Americans surely must have been bored with convenience foods and educational television could have used some spirit.

Spitz has served up a page turner, and I can’t wait to finish the book.

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I first met the Flemings when I bought some of their fabulously delicious red bell peppers at the Saugatuck Farmers Market a couple years ago.

I joined them as they tapped some trees in the woods on their farm.

I’ve been enamored with maple syrup since I read Miracles on Maple Hill, a charming story set in the 1950s. A must-read for nature lovers and fans of children’s literature.

But back to the syrup.

This strange so-called “spring” we’re having, which included a dusting of snow this morning, makes for a longer maple season as freeze-and-thaw cycles make the sap run longer.

Producers tell me when it goes from cold straight to warm, the sap comes all at once and then they’re finished. So in this case the crazy weather is an asset.

Maple syrup might be the North American continent’s earliest sweetener.  Native Americans taught settlers how to make it, tapping trees with stones, then using bark to funnel the sap into birch buckets.  It was concentrated by dropping hot stones into the buckets.

Today, the process is remarkably similar.  At the first hint of spring, when a freeze/thaw cycles begin, sap comes up from the roots to nourish the branches.  Trees are tapped with a drill, then plastic taps are “tapped” in with a hammer and a tube attached that resembles a medical IV tube.  The sap runs into food-safe buckets, which get emptied into a larger bucket, then into a tank on the back of a truck.  The truck is dispatched to the sugar shack, where the sap is pumped into a holding tank near the evaporator.

The evaporator could be considered a giant rectangular saucepan with thermometers and indicators to be sure it never gets to a simmer.

The sap, which tastes sweet but is a clear liquid like water, is warmed until most of the liquid evaporates, leaving a rich amber syrup.  The syrup is then drawn off, filtered, graded, and then bottled for market.

It takes about 50 to 60 gallons of sap to make a single gallon of syrup, which gives you an indication of why the price is so dear - there’s a lot of work that goes into that golden amber.

And a little goes a long way.

My favorite way to enjoy it?

Drizzled over vanilla ice cream or stirred into yogurt.  With all due respect to pancakes, waffles and French toast, for some reason the creamy/sweet combination is the ultimate pleasure for me.  Here, I’ve strained whole milk yogurt to thicken it a little.  Enjoy.

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And today, in the month that we celebrate Easter, Passover, the first day of spring and  the return of daylight savings time, I am definitely celebrating winter. 

Chicago is in the midst of what’s being called the biggest snow storm since the blizzard of 2011 when city officials closed Lake Shore Drive after hundreds of cars were stranded.

So join me, won’t you?

Ignore the calendar - it’s winter! Let’s roast Brussels sprouts.

I’m sad to report that Brussels sprouts are maligned because people don’t cook them properly.  Plain and simple.

In this easy method you cook at high heat to bring out their roasted goodness and help them caramelize.  Your trusty Lodge cast iron skillet is your best friend for this recipe.  And the technique works equally well on carrots or potatoes, really any substantial vegetable.

And Lauro reminded me that we enjoyed these tasty morsels at the dinner party where we met, at the Toronto home of my friend wine writer and mystery author Tony Aspler, his wife Deborah Benoit and their pooch Pinot the Wonder Dog. Tony is from England, and Lauro went to university in England, and thus we’ve dubbed them the perfect English dish.  Great for any Chicago winter.

Mustardy Brussels sprouts

1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 generous tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 425 degrees while you trim off any wilted leaves and cut the Brussels sprouts in half. In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil and mustard.  Add the Brussels sprouts and turn to coat.  Sprinkle with a generous amount of salt and pepper.  Spill into a large cast iron skillet and cook until caramelized and fork tender, about 15 minutes.

News for Chicago food friends

I’ll be at the Good Food Festival on Saturday, March 16, to moderate a panel “So You Want To Be A Farmer” (don’t we all) and to sign Farmers’ Markets of the Heartland.

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But I’ve found that deprivation isn’t the recipe for long-lasting change, so I’ve been cutting back on white flour (my favorite weakness), and stocking up on bold, flavorful veg foods like my chickpea sweet potato tagine, or roasted vegetables over Parmesan polenta.

I’ve also learned that soups can be among the healthiest meals, because they contain filling liquid, as long as that liquid isn’t cream.

Thus I’ve been making pureed soups like carrot coriander or apple celeriac soup with apple “croutons.”  Or using up my leftover roasted vegetables in some homemade stock with navy beans.

The most important meal

Of course, every healthy eating plan begins with a good breakfast. For me, that’s oatmeal.

I worked with great people at Quaker oatmeal for a time, and fell in love with all ways of making it.  I created my own honey-sweetened pine nut granola, then riffed on it using heart-healthy olive oil.

And so today I’m sharing my recipe for rib-sticking steel cut oatmeal.  This heartier version has a rich, nutty texture, simmered slowly in a little milk and a few prunes.  This is a completely adaptable recipe that lends itself to fruit juice or cider, with any dried or fresh fruit. It takes a while to simmer, but it cooks faster if you prepare it the night before and let it soak overnight in the fridge.

This edition is my favorite. Rich tasting without cream, and sweet because the prunes cook down and permeate the oatmeal.  I’ve taken to calling it aux pruneaux because it makes me feel like I’m having an indulgent vacation on a Sunday morning.

Slow-simmered oatmeal with prunes

Serves one for breakfast (can be multiplied)

1/4 cup steel cut oats

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup prunes, sliced

scant 1/8 teaspoon salt

sprinkle of cinnamon to taste

Butter for serving

Pour the oats, milk and water into a small saucepan.  Stir in the prunes and sprinkle with salt and cinnamon.  Heat on the stove over high heat until bubbles form around the edge of the pan, then turn down to low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 20 - 30 minutes. Spoon into a bowl and top with a small knob of butter.

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Sending you warmest greetings of the season.

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Here in the U.S., where we have a deep Italian influence, we call it panettone, a delicious yeasty bread punctuated with dried fruits like currants or raisins

People, I’m sure you’ve figured this out, but panettone makes the best French toast ever. Ever.

Typically Lauro brings a big round loaf home, and we’ll have it on hand to eat and eat and eat, slice by delicious slice.

Before it’s devoured inch by inch, I wrench away a few slices for French toast.  I use my biggest serrated bread knife to slice the big round loaf down the center.  Then I turn it face down and I cut half-inch slices from the center of the loaf, leaving the smaller edges for continued snacking.

Incidentally, both the French toast and the snacking pieces are great with my cinnamon sugar butter.

Panettone French toast

Serves four to six

8 1/2-inch slices panettone or other sweet bread

6 eggs

1/2 cup heavy cream or half-and-half

Vegetable oil for griddling

Preheat oven to 250 degrees and put an oven-proof platter on the center rack. Preheat a skillet or griddle over medium heat - a good pre-heat on cast iron will give you great French toast every time.  When a drop of water dances on the surface, it’s ready. Brush it with oil when ready to griddle.

Meanwhile, whisk together the eggs and cream in a shallow bowl.  Dip the bread into the egg mixture and turn to coat. Place on the griddle and cook until your desired level of golden, about three minutes depending on your equipment. Turn to cook the other side.  Remove and transfer to the platter in the oven.  Repeat with remaining slices.  Serve with embellishments of your choice.

Embellishments

Set out an array of embellishments and let everyone top their own French toast:

• Cinnamon sugar butter
• Plain yogurt with orange zest and orange-flavored liqueur
• Maple syrup
• Powdered sugar
• Jam, thinned to sauce consistency with a little water or liqueur

Last year I served Maria Speck’s saffron waffles.  What will you be making?

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Rather than being known for other things, like being grumpy in the morning, for example, or not being able to hold crow pose in yoga?

I’m talking about my rosemary shortbread, a thin little flavorful cookie that people seem to like.  I was recently introduced this way: “Janine’s the one who gave us our recipe for rosemary shortbread.”  Their reaction: “Cool!” Wow, cool indeed.

And thus I’m reposting one of my favorite recipes for a great little cookie.  The one I bring to hostesses and holiday gatherings.  The one people tell me they have been saving to try. The one that a staffer at Floriole said “you have to try these” when she was setting up for a book dinner.  She didn’t even know the recipe was mine.

A word about technique.  Because my Scottish grandmother insisted this dough should be mixed by hand, that’s how I do it. You an use a mixer, and you can also double or quadruple the recipe.

I include rosemary because I love the flavor (and it is prolific in my Michigan garden), but you can substitute lavender or thyme.

And if your are one of the kindred spirits who have a copy of Farmers’ Markets of the Heartland, you’ll find it on page 155.

Janine’s Rosemary Shortbread

Makes 16 cookies

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt, plus extra for sprinkling

2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary, plus extra for sprinkling

1 cup all-purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees and position a rack in center of the oven. Use a wooden spoon to stir together the butter, sugar, and salt until smooth. Stir in the rosemary. Mix in half of the flour until well combined, then add the remaining flour and stir, again until well combined. The dough may become stiff, so patiently stir in the flour until it is completely incorporated.

Press the mixture evenly into a buttered 8-inch square metal pan, using damp fingers if necessary. Sprinkle the top evenly with a little extra rosemary and salt.

Bake until lightly golden around the edges, about 30 - 40 minutes. Immediately cut into squares or triangles, then cool for about ten minutes. Remove the shortbread from the pan with an offset spatula and cool completely.  Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a week.

Other cookie favs for your cookie swap

If you’re looking for other morsels to bake up this season, for your cookie exchange or just for your family, here are a few of my favorites:

• Chocolate shortbread
• Gingersnap cut-out cookies
• Spiced chocolate crinkle cookies
• Waffle dipping cookies

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My latest canning bonanza has been just that.  I was invited for a return engagement as a Canbassador for the Washington Fruit and Sweet Preservation folks, and a crate of gorgeous peaches and nectarines and plums arrived.

So I expected a food adventure in the kitchen. And that did indeed happened.

But in addition, as I was poking around looking for inspiration, I came across nectarine salsa at the Hip Girl’s Guide to Homemaking, autumn spiced jam at Blue Kale Road, and a whole slew of preserve recipes at Punk Domestics.  And then I went looking for ways to use the pits and found a great pastry chef in Kentucky.  It’s such a delight to bond with people who enjoy great taste and fun in the kitchen, not to mention bringing back some age-old preservation techniques.

In my book, Farmers’ Markets of the Heartland, I referenced the easiest method ever for making fruit jam.  It requires a kitchen scale, both affordable and widely available these days.

Simple small batch jam guidelines

My simple process is to weigh equal amounts of fruit and sugar, then add a quarter cup of lemon juice per pound of fruit, depending on the sweetness you’re going for.  A pound each of fruit and sugar will get you a half pint of jam, more or less.  If you want to use less sugar, great.  Just be sure to store your jam in the refrigerator or freezer and expect a looser texture.

That same simple process post has links to experts who explain how to know when your jam is set and how to can it up to avoid any unfortunate incidents.  The fabulous Marissa at Food In Jars has a great list of resources if you’re new to canning.

For me the fun part is the flavor embellishing.  Not that gorgeous fruit needs it, but what fun to play with the flavors.

So here’s what I’m sharing today:

Peach cilantro preserves

(Top photo) Per pound of peaches, add about two teaspoons of minced cilantro at the end of cooking.

Plum balsamic preserves

(Middle photo) Per pound of plums, add about one tablespoon high quality balsamic vinegar at the end of cooking.

Nectarine fennel seed preserves

(Bottom photo) Per pound of nectarines, stir in 1/2 teaspoon toasted fennel seeds at the end of cooking.  This may not seem like a lot, but a little goes a long way here to enable you to taste both the fennel seed and the nectarine.

I hope you’ll get into the kitchen and try your own favorite flavor combinations to extend the luscious fruit of the season.  And thanks to the Washington fruit orchard folks, who work so hard to bring us deliciousness.

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